{"id":4804,"date":"2011-11-22T15:11:30","date_gmt":"2011-11-22T14:11:30","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/litosasturias.com\/?p=4804"},"modified":"2023-06-10T01:04:38","modified_gmt":"2023-06-09T23:04:38","slug":"indonesia-los-toraja","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/indonesia-los-toraja\/","title":{"rendered":"Indonesia &#8211; Toroja"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>Ahondando en el camino, avanz\u00e1bamos entre arrozales. Los campos se mov\u00edan con el viento como una ola. En la carretera secaban el arroz en lonas y vend\u00edan frutas. A veces llov\u00eda, el ambiente se tornaba enigm\u00e1tico. Pasaron cinco silenciosas horas, ya que mi compa\u00f1ero casi no hablaba, hasta que llegamos a la ciudad de Rantepao. La estancia en el nuevo hotel, como el anterior, dej\u00f3 mucho que desear. No obstante, cuando hab\u00eda decidido trasladarme a otro lugar, mi compa\u00f1ero toc\u00f3 a la puerta rompiendo al fin su silencio. Me pregunt\u00f3 qu\u00e9 me hab\u00eda llevado hasta all\u00ed, le contest\u00e9 que era un viajero interesado en conocer el hogar de los toraja, grupo \u00e9tnico de las monta\u00f1as de Sulawesi, donde me encontraba. \u00c9l se mostr\u00f3 entonces muy cercano y en seguida se present\u00f3 como Mart\u00ednez. Despu\u00e9s me sugiri\u00f3 acompa\u00f1arlo m\u00e1s hacia al norte de la isla para asistir a una ceremonia; casualmente, Mart\u00ednez era toraja. Hizo una llamada telef\u00f3nica y enseguida llegaron dos chicos en dos motos a recogernos.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedgallery .kb-gallery-type-grid.kb-gallery-id-_f173d8-74{margin:-7px;}.kb-gallery-type-grid.kb-gallery-id-_f173d8-74 .kadence-blocks-gallery-item{padding:7px;}.kb-gallery-id-_f173d8-74 .kadence-blocks-gallery-item .kb-gal-image-radius, .kb-gallery-id-_f173d8-74 .kb-slide-item .kb-gal-image-radius img{border-radius:0px 0px 0px 0px;;}<\/style><div class=\"kb-gallery-wrap-id-_f173d8-74 alignnone wp-block-kadence-advancedgallery\"><ul class=\"kb-gallery-ul kb-gallery-non-static kb-gallery-type-grid kb-gallery-id-_f173d8-74 kb-gallery-caption-style-bottom-hover kb-gallery-filter-none kb-gallery-magnific-init\" data-image-filter=\"none\" data-item-selector=\".kadence-blocks-gallery-item\" data-lightbox-caption=\"true\" data-columns-xxl=\"2\" data-columns-xl=\"2\" data-columns-md=\"2\" data-columns-sm=\"2\" data-columns-xs=\"1\" data-columns-ss=\"1\"><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-land32 kb-has-image-ratio-land32\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja.jpg\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja.jpg\" data-id=\"4805\" class=\"wp-image-4805 lazyload\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja.jpg 500w, https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja-350x263.jpg 350w, https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja-260x195.jpg 260w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 500px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 500\/375;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja2.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-land32 kb-has-image-ratio-land32\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja2.jpg\" width=\"250\" height=\"188\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja2.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja2.jpg\" data-id=\"4806\" class=\"wp-image-4806 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 250px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 250\/188;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><\/ul><\/div>\n\n\n<p>La lluvia fina y constante ca\u00eda frecuentemente como una niebla leve en el verdor de los campos, algunas mujeres labraban en los prados cargando a sus hijos sobre la espalda, con el sol en sus rostros y las manos en la tierra. A pesar del esfuerzo lo hac\u00edan con una dulzura conmovedora. Adem\u00e1s, los frutos de las plantas emanaban dulces aromas y hab\u00eda en la atm\u00f3sfera un intenso olor a caf\u00e9 que renovaba el \u00e1nimo. Pero de fondo percib\u00eda algo todav\u00eda m\u00e1s embriagador, era la sensaci\u00f3n de estar adentr\u00e1ndome en un territorio gobernado por lo desconocido. En el camino paramos en un poblado que Mart\u00ednez quiso ense\u00f1arme; las casas de madera levantadas sobre pilares brotaban de la tierra como quillas de barcos. Seg\u00fan ellos, Dios descendi\u00f3 en una embarcaci\u00f3n semejante, por eso sus hogares tienen esa forma. En las fachadas se exponen cuernos de b\u00fafalos sacrificados que simbolizan la riqueza y el prestigio de las familias, al igual que tallas de madera adornadas con pinturas de animales y plantas; cada color tiene un significado: rojo de sangre, blanco de esp\u00edritu, negro de muerte, amarillo de vida. La niebla te\u00f1\u00eda el poblado, era como el aliento de un alma viva. Sent\u00eda que todo estaba imantado por un aura m\u00edstica. Entonces un movimiento inquietante hacia zigzaguear mis pasos: era Mart\u00ednez que me llevaba. Regresamos a las motos y seguimos nuestro camino. Kil\u00f3metros adelante nos desviamos de la v\u00eda principal hacia la derecha. La carretera ascend\u00eda hacia las altas tierras toraja. Cuando llegamos a nuestro destino me encontr\u00e9 con un remoto pueblo donde multitud de personas caminaban de un lado a otro. Hab\u00eda algarab\u00eda y movimiento. La peque\u00f1a aldea se preparaba para la ceremonia.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedgallery .kb-gallery-type-grid.kb-gallery-id-_78cce4-29{margin:-7px;}.kb-gallery-type-grid.kb-gallery-id-_78cce4-29 .kadence-blocks-gallery-item{padding:7px;}.kb-gallery-id-_78cce4-29 .kadence-blocks-gallery-item .kb-gal-image-radius, .kb-gallery-id-_78cce4-29 .kb-slide-item .kb-gal-image-radius img{border-radius:0px 0px 0px 0px;;}<\/style><div class=\"kb-gallery-wrap-id-_78cce4-29 alignnone wp-block-kadence-advancedgallery\"><ul class=\"kb-gallery-ul kb-gallery-non-static kb-gallery-type-grid kb-gallery-id-_78cce4-29 kb-gallery-caption-style-bottom-hover kb-gallery-filter-none kb-gallery-magnific-init\" data-image-filter=\"none\" data-item-selector=\".kadence-blocks-gallery-item\" data-lightbox-caption=\"true\" data-columns-xxl=\"3\" data-columns-xl=\"3\" data-columns-md=\"3\" data-columns-sm=\"2\" data-columns-xs=\"1\" data-columns-ss=\"1\"><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja1-1.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-land32 kb-has-image-ratio-land32\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja1-1.jpg\" width=\"250\" height=\"188\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja1-1.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja1-1.jpg\" data-id=\"4814\" class=\"wp-image-4814 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 250px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 250\/188;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja3-2.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-land32 kb-has-image-ratio-land32\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja3-2.jpg\" width=\"250\" height=\"188\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja3-2.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja3-2.jpg\" data-id=\"4815\" class=\"wp-image-4815 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 250px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 250\/188;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja4-1.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-land32 kb-has-image-ratio-land32\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja4-1.jpg\" width=\"250\" height=\"188\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja4-1.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja4-1.jpg\" data-id=\"4816\" class=\"wp-image-4816 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 250px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 250\/188;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><\/ul><\/div>\n\n\n<p>La casa de los familiares de Mart\u00ednez se encontraba al pie de la calzada, all\u00ed nos detuvimos, nos descalzamos y entramos. Hab\u00eda dos habitaciones separadas por un tabique de bamb\u00fa, todos dorm\u00edan ah\u00ed. Un pa\u00f1o serv\u00eda de puerta. Estaban los padres, Adolf y Yusuf; sus hijos, Leksi, el m\u00e1s joven, y Linda, y Geny, la peque\u00f1a hija de Linda. Pasamos al comedor como invitados. Siempre se bendec\u00eda la mesa antes de empezar. Ante m\u00ed ten\u00eda un plato de arroz y verduras, servido en una hoja de palmera, que deb\u00eda comer con las manos. Fue una feliz experiencia. Con los dedos pude diferenciar las texturas y sentir con mayor gusto todo lo que captaban mis sentidos. Nadie me dec\u00eda nada. Adem\u00e1s, la encantadora presencia de la familia de Mart\u00ednez me reconfortaba. Adolf y Yusuf transmit\u00edan la gracia de un v\u00ednculo armonioso y estable. Leksi se sinti\u00f3 orgulloso con mi llegada, lo demostraba constantemente con una afable sonrisa; Mart\u00ednez, siempre callado y sereno, cuidaba de mi estancia con atenci\u00f3n y cari\u00f1o, y Linda acunaba con amor a la peque\u00f1a Geny.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedgallery .kb-gallery-type-grid.kb-gallery-id-_b30147-6c{margin:-7px;}.kb-gallery-type-grid.kb-gallery-id-_b30147-6c .kadence-blocks-gallery-item{padding:7px;}.kb-gallery-id-_b30147-6c .kadence-blocks-gallery-item .kb-gal-image-radius, .kb-gallery-id-_b30147-6c .kb-slide-item .kb-gal-image-radius img{border-radius:0px 0px 0px 0px;;}<\/style><div class=\"kb-gallery-wrap-id-_b30147-6c alignnone wp-block-kadence-advancedgallery\"><ul class=\"kb-gallery-ul kb-gallery-non-static kb-gallery-type-grid kb-gallery-id-_b30147-6c kb-gallery-caption-style-bottom-hover kb-gallery-filter-none kb-gallery-magnific-init\" data-image-filter=\"none\" data-item-selector=\".kadence-blocks-gallery-item\" data-lightbox-caption=\"true\" data-columns-xxl=\"2\" data-columns-xl=\"2\" data-columns-md=\"2\" data-columns-sm=\"2\" data-columns-xs=\"1\" data-columns-ss=\"1\"><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja6.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-land32 kb-has-image-ratio-land32\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja6.jpg\" width=\"250\" height=\"188\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja6.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja6.jpg\" data-id=\"4817\" class=\"wp-image-4817 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 250px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 250\/188;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja5.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-land32 kb-has-image-ratio-land32\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja5.jpg\" width=\"250\" height=\"188\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja5.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja5.jpg\" data-id=\"4818\" class=\"wp-image-4818 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 250px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 250\/188;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja7.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-land32 kb-has-image-ratio-land32\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja7.jpg\" width=\"250\" height=\"188\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja7.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja7.jpg\" data-id=\"4819\" class=\"wp-image-4819 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 250px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 250\/188;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja8.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-land32 kb-has-image-ratio-land32\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja8.jpg\" width=\"250\" height=\"188\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja8.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja8.jpg\" data-id=\"4820\" class=\"wp-image-4820 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 250px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 250\/188;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><\/ul><\/div>\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedgallery .kb-gallery-type-grid.kb-gallery-id-_352c38-53{margin:-7px;}.kb-gallery-type-grid.kb-gallery-id-_352c38-53 .kadence-blocks-gallery-item{padding:7px;}.kb-gallery-id-_352c38-53 .kadence-blocks-gallery-item .kb-gal-image-radius, .kb-gallery-id-_352c38-53 .kb-slide-item .kb-gal-image-radius img{border-radius:0px 0px 0px 0px;;}<\/style><div class=\"kb-gallery-wrap-id-_352c38-53 alignnone wp-block-kadence-advancedgallery\"><ul class=\"kb-gallery-ul kb-gallery-non-static kb-gallery-type-grid kb-gallery-id-_352c38-53 kb-gallery-caption-style-bottom-hover kb-gallery-filter-none kb-gallery-magnific-init\" data-image-filter=\"none\" data-item-selector=\".kadence-blocks-gallery-item\" data-lightbox-caption=\"true\" data-columns-xxl=\"2\" data-columns-xl=\"2\" data-columns-md=\"2\" data-columns-sm=\"2\" data-columns-xs=\"1\" data-columns-ss=\"1\"><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja9.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-land32 kb-has-image-ratio-land32\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja9.jpg\" width=\"250\" height=\"188\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja9.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja9.jpg\" data-id=\"4821\" class=\"wp-image-4821 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 250px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 250\/188;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja10.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-land32 kb-has-image-ratio-land32\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja10.jpg\" width=\"250\" height=\"188\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja10.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja10.jpg\" data-id=\"4822\" class=\"wp-image-4822 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 250px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 250\/188;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja11.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-land32 kb-has-image-ratio-land32\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja11.jpg\" width=\"250\" height=\"188\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja11.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja11.jpg\" data-id=\"4823\" class=\"wp-image-4823 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 250px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 250\/188;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja12.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-land32 kb-has-image-ratio-land32\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja12.jpg\" width=\"250\" height=\"188\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja12.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja12.jpg\" data-id=\"4824\" class=\"wp-image-4824 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 250px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 250\/188;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><\/ul><\/div>\n\n\n<p>Bajamos al pueblo para asistir a la ceremonia, que duraba varios d\u00edas. En nuestra cultura pasan veinticuatro horas antes de efectuar el rito funerario, mientras que en los torajas ese tiempo puede alargarse durante semanas, meses o, incluso, a\u00f1os. Todo depende de cu\u00e1nto tiempo tarde la familia en recaudar el dinero para hacer una verdadera despedida. De manera que, cuando una persona muere, reposa en la casa de su familia hasta que se concrete la ceremonia. Durante ese tiempo se conserva el cuerpo del difunto como si este fuera un enfermo; y mientras tanto se engalana el poblado. Fue ese momento el que tuve la fortuna de ver. Todo estaba listo para albergar a cientos de invitados y familiares que llegaban de todas partes para la celebraci\u00f3n. Todos eran agasajados con bebida y comida. Mart\u00ednez me present\u00f3 al pastor del pueblo. Me abrieron un peque\u00f1o espacio y me sent\u00e9 a comer con ellos. En un descampado sacrificaban cerdos y b\u00fafalos, los cocinaban en hogueras, evisceraban y troceaban la carne para luego cocinarla ali\u00f1ada con verduras y especies, todo era preparado en ca\u00f1as de bamb\u00fa que luego se serv\u00edan acompa\u00f1adas de <em>nasi goreng<\/em>, el plato t\u00edpico indonesio de arroz. Los entarimados de madera, que serv\u00edan de estancia para los invitados, estaban estructurados y divididos por familias. Cada una ten\u00eda su estancia enumerada y con capacidad para unos cuarenta invitados. Comimos y bebimos entre risas, bromas y cantos. Un n\u00famero incontable de cerdos se sacrificaron ante mis ojos. Luego de la ceremonia, el pastor, Mart\u00ednez y yo regresamos a casa.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedgallery .kb-gallery-type-grid.kb-gallery-id-_c9fbf2-59{margin:-7px;}.kb-gallery-type-grid.kb-gallery-id-_c9fbf2-59 .kadence-blocks-gallery-item{padding:7px;}.kb-gallery-id-_c9fbf2-59 .kadence-blocks-gallery-item .kb-gal-image-radius, .kb-gallery-id-_c9fbf2-59 .kb-slide-item .kb-gal-image-radius img{border-radius:0px 0px 0px 0px;;}<\/style><div class=\"kb-gallery-wrap-id-_c9fbf2-59 alignnone wp-block-kadence-advancedgallery\"><ul class=\"kb-gallery-ul kb-gallery-non-static kb-gallery-type-grid kb-gallery-id-_c9fbf2-59 kb-gallery-caption-style-bottom-hover kb-gallery-filter-none kb-gallery-magnific-init\" data-image-filter=\"none\" data-item-selector=\".kadence-blocks-gallery-item\" data-lightbox-caption=\"true\" data-columns-xxl=\"2\" data-columns-xl=\"2\" data-columns-md=\"2\" data-columns-sm=\"2\" data-columns-xs=\"1\" data-columns-ss=\"1\"><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja13.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-land32 kb-has-image-ratio-land32\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja13.jpg\" width=\"250\" height=\"188\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja13.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja13.jpg\" data-id=\"4825\" class=\"wp-image-4825 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 250px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 250\/188;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja15.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-land32 kb-has-image-ratio-land32\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja15.jpg\" width=\"250\" height=\"188\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja15.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja15.jpg\" data-id=\"4826\" class=\"wp-image-4826 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 250px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 250\/188;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><\/ul><\/div>\n\n\n<p>Amaneci\u00f3 en las tierras altas de los toraja. Huevos fritos, arroz y b\u00fafalo fue nuestro desayuno. Mart\u00ednez encendi\u00f3 la moto y salimos a dar un paseo. Una palabra precisa le bastaba para decir lo que hab\u00eda que hacer. Hab\u00eda estudiado en la escuela marina de Macasar, era ingeniero de m\u00e1quinas, segundo capit\u00e1n de barco en aguas internacionales. Era inteligente, sensato, discreto y caritativo. Bajo su apariencia poco comunicativa escond\u00eda un coraz\u00f3n enorme. Dejaba el ochenta por ciento de su sueldo a la caridad, pues apadrinaba a veinticinco ni\u00f1os, y se sustentaba \u00e9l con el restante. Un d\u00eda me ofreci\u00f3 el rosario que llevaba colgado de su cuello desde hac\u00eda muchos a\u00f1os, regalo de su hermano misionero. Lo rechac\u00e9, pero no olvid\u00e9 ese generoso gesto que tanto me habl\u00f3 de su noble coraz\u00f3n.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedgallery .kb-gallery-type-grid.kb-gallery-id-_f722ed-4d{margin:-7px;}.kb-gallery-type-grid.kb-gallery-id-_f722ed-4d .kadence-blocks-gallery-item{padding:7px;}.kb-gallery-id-_f722ed-4d .kadence-blocks-gallery-item .kb-gal-image-radius, .kb-gallery-id-_f722ed-4d .kb-slide-item .kb-gal-image-radius img{border-radius:0px 0px 0px 0px;;}<\/style><div class=\"kb-gallery-wrap-id-_f722ed-4d alignnone wp-block-kadence-advancedgallery\"><ul class=\"kb-gallery-ul kb-gallery-non-static kb-gallery-type-grid kb-gallery-id-_f722ed-4d kb-gallery-caption-style-bottom-hover kb-gallery-filter-none kb-gallery-magnific-init\" data-image-filter=\"none\" data-item-selector=\".kadence-blocks-gallery-item\" data-lightbox-caption=\"true\" data-columns-xxl=\"2\" data-columns-xl=\"2\" data-columns-md=\"2\" data-columns-sm=\"2\" data-columns-xs=\"1\" data-columns-ss=\"1\"><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja14.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-square kb-has-image-ratio-square\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja14.jpg\" width=\"188\" height=\"250\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja14.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja14.jpg\" data-id=\"4827\" class=\"wp-image-4827 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 188px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 188\/250;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja35.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-square kb-has-image-ratio-square\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja35.jpg\" width=\"188\" height=\"250\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja35.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja35.jpg\" data-id=\"4828\" class=\"wp-image-4828 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 188px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 188\/250;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><\/ul><\/div>\n\n\n<p>En nuestro recorrido visitamos una monta\u00f1a que en realidad era un cementerio; en \u00e9l, las familias m\u00e1s nobles y ricas eran enterradas en la pared del pe\u00f1asco y el resto de los pobladores, en lugares inferiores y cuevas alrededor de la monta\u00f1a. Los difuntos se depositaban en nichos cavados en las rocas sagradas, y sobre ellos se pon\u00edan una serie de \u00eddolos en tallas de madera que custodiaban al muerto con ropas y objetos alusivos al mismo. Esas tallas, que son esp\u00edritus protectores, reciben el nombre de <em>Tau-Tau<\/em>, cuyo gesto de ofrenda, con sus miradas serenas dirigi\u00e9ndose al cielo, me permit\u00eda ver la esencia de la actitud festiva, tranquila y profunda de los toraja ante la muerte. Luego, visitamos otro cementerio donde encontr\u00e9 un enorme \u00e1rbol que era una sepultura m\u00faltiple de cuerpos inocentes; los beb\u00e9s se enterraban en agujeros hechos sobre el mismo tronco y envueltos en una s\u00e1bana. Con los a\u00f1os, el esp\u00edritu de ese cuerpo inocente se eleva hacia al cielo protegido por la savia y la corteza del viejo \u00e1rbol.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedgallery .kb-gallery-type-grid.kb-gallery-id-_a4e05a-f4{margin:-7px;}.kb-gallery-type-grid.kb-gallery-id-_a4e05a-f4 .kadence-blocks-gallery-item{padding:7px;}.kb-gallery-id-_a4e05a-f4 .kadence-blocks-gallery-item .kb-gal-image-radius, .kb-gallery-id-_a4e05a-f4 .kb-slide-item .kb-gal-image-radius img{border-radius:0px 0px 0px 0px;;}<\/style><div class=\"kb-gallery-wrap-id-_a4e05a-f4 alignnone wp-block-kadence-advancedgallery\"><ul class=\"kb-gallery-ul kb-gallery-non-static kb-gallery-type-grid kb-gallery-id-_a4e05a-f4 kb-gallery-caption-style-bottom-hover kb-gallery-filter-none\" data-image-filter=\"none\" data-item-selector=\".kadence-blocks-gallery-item\" data-lightbox-caption=\"true\" data-columns-xxl=\"2\" data-columns-xl=\"2\" data-columns-md=\"2\" data-columns-sm=\"2\" data-columns-xs=\"1\" data-columns-ss=\"1\"><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja36.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-land32 kb-has-image-ratio-land32\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja36.jpg\" width=\"250\" height=\"188\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja36.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja36.jpg\" data-id=\"4829\" class=\"wp-image-4829 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 250px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 250\/188;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja37.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-land32 kb-has-image-ratio-land32\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja37.jpg\" width=\"250\" height=\"188\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja37.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja37.jpg\" data-id=\"4830\" class=\"wp-image-4830 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 250px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 250\/188;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja38.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-land32 kb-has-image-ratio-land32\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja38.jpg\" width=\"250\" height=\"188\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja38.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja38.jpg\" data-id=\"4831\" class=\"wp-image-4831 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 250px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 250\/188;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja40.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-land32 kb-has-image-ratio-land32\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja40.jpg\" width=\"250\" height=\"188\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja40.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja40.jpg\" data-id=\"4832\" class=\"wp-image-4832 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 250px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 250\/188;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja41-1.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-land32 kb-has-image-ratio-land32\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja41-1.jpg\" width=\"188\" height=\"250\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja41-1.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja41-1.jpg\" data-id=\"4835\" class=\"wp-image-4835 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 188px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 188\/250;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja42-1.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-land32 kb-has-image-ratio-land32\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja42-1.jpg\" width=\"250\" height=\"188\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja42-1.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja42-1.jpg\" data-id=\"4836\" class=\"wp-image-4836 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 250px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 250\/188;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><\/ul><\/div>\n\n\n<p>En este lugar sagrado, mientras observaba, mi memoria se abri\u00f3 y vi que todo lo que hab\u00eda vivido hasta entonces en la tierra de los toraja ten\u00eda una misma esencia. Record\u00e9 a la chica que amamantaba a su hijo en el coche y vi que el amor que proyectaba su mirada pod\u00eda estar, con la misma intensidad, en los ojos de una madre que sepultaba a su hijo en el \u00e1rbol. Asimismo, vino a m\u00ed el recuerdo de mi abuelo que me abrigaba con su cuerpo, en las noches fr\u00edas, como un \u00e1rbol robusto y amoroso. Entend\u00ed cu\u00e1nta verdad se escond\u00eda en esa costumbre y por qu\u00e9 me resultaba tan familiar, y c\u00f3mo, de alguna forma, ese \u00e1rbol tambi\u00e9n hac\u00eda parte de m\u00ed y se ocultaba en mi interior. Mi esp\u00edritu se enraizaba, crec\u00eda, y cada ramificaci\u00f3n proyectada me revelaba algo oculto. Entonces sent\u00ed como si el alma de los ni\u00f1os me despertara mostr\u00e1ndome las entrelineas de la vida, el misterio de no saber tantas cosas. Miraba las ramas que se extend\u00edan hac\u00eda los cielos, el agua que corr\u00eda por mis pies, haciendo crepitar las hojas marchitas; las ra\u00edces penetrando en el subsuelo hacia lo oscuro, los p\u00e1jaros cantando sobre el tronco. No solo era un \u00e1rbol: era el nudo materno que lo conectaba todo. Mart\u00ednez permanec\u00eda a mi lado silencioso. Pero en realidad todo me hablaba de \u00e9l. Cada cosa que miraba era una palabra que no me dec\u00eda y que me hablaba en secreto.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedgallery .kb-gallery-type-grid.kb-gallery-id-_287dbe-98{margin:-7px;}.kb-gallery-type-grid.kb-gallery-id-_287dbe-98 .kadence-blocks-gallery-item{padding:7px;}.kb-gallery-id-_287dbe-98 .kadence-blocks-gallery-item .kb-gal-image-radius, .kb-gallery-id-_287dbe-98 .kb-slide-item .kb-gal-image-radius img{border-radius:0px 0px 0px 0px;;}<\/style><div class=\"kb-gallery-wrap-id-_287dbe-98 alignnone wp-block-kadence-advancedgallery\"><ul class=\"kb-gallery-ul kb-gallery-non-static kb-gallery-type-grid kb-gallery-id-_287dbe-98 kb-gallery-caption-style-bottom-hover kb-gallery-filter-none kb-gallery-magnific-init\" data-image-filter=\"none\" data-item-selector=\".kadence-blocks-gallery-item\" data-lightbox-caption=\"true\" data-columns-xxl=\"2\" data-columns-xl=\"2\" data-columns-md=\"2\" data-columns-sm=\"2\" data-columns-xs=\"1\" data-columns-ss=\"1\"><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja62.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-port23 kb-has-image-ratio-port23\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja62.jpg\" width=\"250\" height=\"188\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja62.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja62.jpg\" data-id=\"4837\" class=\"wp-image-4837 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 250px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 250\/188;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja63.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-port23 kb-has-image-ratio-port23\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja63.jpg\" width=\"188\" height=\"250\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja63.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja63.jpg\" data-id=\"4838\" class=\"wp-image-4838 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 188px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 188\/250;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><\/ul><\/div>\n\n\n<p>Al salir del cementerio, paramos en unas aguas termales. Tomamos un ba\u00f1o y luego seguimos nuestro camino. Desde la moto pude ver la vida cotidiana de las aldeas. La gratitud de la gente que nos saludaba al paso, levantado la mano, nos regal\u00f3 una palpitante jornada. Ya en la noche volvimos a casa.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedgallery .kb-gallery-type-grid.kb-gallery-id-_a80ebc-9c{margin:-7px;}.kb-gallery-type-grid.kb-gallery-id-_a80ebc-9c .kadence-blocks-gallery-item{padding:7px;}.kb-gallery-id-_a80ebc-9c .kadence-blocks-gallery-item .kb-gal-image-radius, .kb-gallery-id-_a80ebc-9c .kb-slide-item .kb-gal-image-radius img{border-radius:0px 0px 0px 0px;;}<\/style><div class=\"kb-gallery-wrap-id-_a80ebc-9c alignnone wp-block-kadence-advancedgallery\"><ul class=\"kb-gallery-ul kb-gallery-non-static kb-gallery-type-grid kb-gallery-id-_a80ebc-9c kb-gallery-caption-style-bottom-hover kb-gallery-filter-none kb-gallery-magnific-init\" data-image-filter=\"none\" data-item-selector=\".kadence-blocks-gallery-item\" data-lightbox-caption=\"true\" data-columns-xxl=\"2\" data-columns-xl=\"2\" data-columns-md=\"2\" data-columns-sm=\"2\" data-columns-xs=\"1\" data-columns-ss=\"1\"><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja60.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-land32 kb-has-image-ratio-land32\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja60.jpg\" width=\"250\" height=\"188\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja60.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja60.jpg\" data-id=\"4839\" class=\"wp-image-4839 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 250px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 250\/188;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja61.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-land32 kb-has-image-ratio-land32\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja61.jpg\" width=\"250\" height=\"188\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja61.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja61.jpg\" data-id=\"4840\" class=\"wp-image-4840 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 250px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 250\/188;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><\/ul><\/div>\n\n\n<p>Sobre la misma carretera, frente a la casa, las ropas se secaban encima de los matorrales. Los animales andaban sueltos por los prados: patos, gallinas, gatos, perros, cerdos y b\u00fafalos de agua, d\u00f3ciles, sumergidos en las \u00e1reas encharcadas con sus cuernos en curva, arando la tierra. Frente a la casa de Mart\u00ednez, del otro lado de la carretera, viv\u00eda el Pastor que nos visitaba y alegraba las ma\u00f1anas tocando la guitarra mientras beb\u00edamos un riqu\u00edsimo caf\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedgallery .kb-gallery-type-grid.kb-gallery-id-_2ed351-d2{margin:-7px;}.kb-gallery-type-grid.kb-gallery-id-_2ed351-d2 .kadence-blocks-gallery-item{padding:7px;}.kb-gallery-id-_2ed351-d2 .kadence-blocks-gallery-item .kb-gal-image-radius, .kb-gallery-id-_2ed351-d2 .kb-slide-item .kb-gal-image-radius img{border-radius:0px 0px 0px 0px;;}<\/style><div class=\"kb-gallery-wrap-id-_2ed351-d2 alignnone wp-block-kadence-advancedgallery\"><ul class=\"kb-gallery-ul kb-gallery-non-static kb-gallery-type-grid kb-gallery-id-_2ed351-d2 kb-gallery-caption-style-bottom-hover kb-gallery-filter-none kb-gallery-magnific-init\" data-image-filter=\"none\" data-item-selector=\".kadence-blocks-gallery-item\" data-lightbox-caption=\"true\" data-columns-xxl=\"2\" data-columns-xl=\"2\" data-columns-md=\"2\" data-columns-sm=\"2\" data-columns-xs=\"1\" data-columns-ss=\"1\"><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja21.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-port23 kb-has-image-ratio-port23\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja21.jpg\" width=\"188\" height=\"250\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja21.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja21.jpg\" data-id=\"4841\" class=\"wp-image-4841 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 188px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 188\/250;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja22.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-port23 kb-has-image-ratio-port23\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja22.jpg\" width=\"188\" height=\"250\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja22.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja22.jpg\" data-id=\"4842\" class=\"wp-image-4842 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 188px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 188\/250;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><\/ul><\/div>\n\n\n<p>Nosotros a veces cruz\u00e1bamos la v\u00eda, sub\u00edamos las escaleras y nos sent\u00e1bamos por horas, con las piernas alzadas en el balc\u00f3n que rodeaba la casa del pastor, mientras com\u00edamos b\u00fafalo con aceitunas y patatas. No me cansaba de masticar aquella dura carne. En esos momentos de plenitud no pensaba nada, simplemente sent\u00eda el paso del tiempo en tanto mec\u00eda la silla, escuchaba m\u00fasica y hablaba con el pastor.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedgallery .kb-gallery-type-grid.kb-gallery-id-_e8a966-96{margin:-5px;}.kb-gallery-type-grid.kb-gallery-id-_e8a966-96 .kadence-blocks-gallery-item{padding:5px;}.kb-gallery-id-_e8a966-96 .kadence-blocks-gallery-item .kb-gal-image-radius, .kb-gallery-id-_e8a966-96 .kb-slide-item .kb-gal-image-radius img{border-radius:0px 0px 0px 0px;;}<\/style><div class=\"kb-gallery-wrap-id-_e8a966-96 alignnone wp-block-kadence-advancedgallery\"><ul class=\"kb-gallery-ul kb-gallery-non-static kb-gallery-type-grid kb-gallery-id-_e8a966-96 kb-gallery-caption-style-bottom-hover kb-gallery-filter-none kb-gallery-magnific-init\" data-image-filter=\"none\" data-item-selector=\".kadence-blocks-gallery-item\" data-lightbox-caption=\"true\" data-columns-xxl=\"2\" data-columns-xl=\"2\" data-columns-md=\"2\" data-columns-sm=\"2\" data-columns-xs=\"1\" data-columns-ss=\"1\"><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja71.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-port23 kb-has-image-ratio-port23\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja71.jpg\" width=\"188\" height=\"250\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja71.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja71.jpg\" data-id=\"4843\" class=\"wp-image-4843 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 188px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 188\/250;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja80.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-port23 kb-has-image-ratio-port23\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja80.jpg\" width=\"188\" height=\"250\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja80.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja80.jpg\" data-id=\"4844\" class=\"wp-image-4844 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 188px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 188\/250;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><\/ul><\/div>\n\n\n<p>En el pueblo segu\u00eda el funeral. Vino el tercer d\u00eda de celebraci\u00f3n, el m\u00e1s grande de todos. Se com\u00eda y beb\u00eda durante todo el d\u00eda. Yusuf, el padre, estaba en la mesa de recuento. Los invitados hac\u00edan regalos y ofrendas de animales. Cada cerdo se media para calcular el peso y dejar constancia en un libro que los familiares del difunto recib\u00edan; luego, se ataban de las patas y se llevaban en ca\u00f1as de bamb\u00fa sobre los hombros. En otra zona estaban los b\u00fafalos albinos, de mayor prestigio para los toraja. Las almas de los muertos solo pueden ir al cielo cuando se completa el ritual de la muerte.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedgallery .kb-gallery-type-grid.kb-gallery-id-_f683d8-21{margin:-7px;}.kb-gallery-type-grid.kb-gallery-id-_f683d8-21 .kadence-blocks-gallery-item{padding:7px;}.kb-gallery-id-_f683d8-21 .kadence-blocks-gallery-item .kb-gal-image-radius, .kb-gallery-id-_f683d8-21 .kb-slide-item .kb-gal-image-radius img{border-radius:0px 0px 0px 0px;;}<\/style><div class=\"kb-gallery-wrap-id-_f683d8-21 alignnone wp-block-kadence-advancedgallery\"><ul class=\"kb-gallery-ul kb-gallery-non-static kb-gallery-type-grid kb-gallery-id-_f683d8-21 kb-gallery-caption-style-bottom-hover kb-gallery-filter-none kb-gallery-magnific-init\" data-image-filter=\"none\" data-item-selector=\".kadence-blocks-gallery-item\" data-lightbox-caption=\"true\" data-columns-xxl=\"2\" data-columns-xl=\"2\" data-columns-md=\"2\" data-columns-sm=\"2\" data-columns-xs=\"1\" data-columns-ss=\"1\"><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja31.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-land32 kb-has-image-ratio-land32\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja31.jpg\" width=\"250\" height=\"188\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja31.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja31.jpg\" data-id=\"4845\" class=\"wp-image-4845 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 250px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 250\/188;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja25.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-land32 kb-has-image-ratio-land32\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja25.jpg\" width=\"250\" height=\"188\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja25.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja25.jpg\" data-id=\"4846\" class=\"wp-image-4846 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 250px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 250\/188;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja24.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-land32 kb-has-image-ratio-land32\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja24.jpg\" width=\"250\" height=\"188\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja24.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja24.jpg\" data-id=\"4850\" class=\"wp-image-4850 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 250px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 250\/188;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja33.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-land32 kb-has-image-ratio-land32\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja33.jpg\" width=\"250\" height=\"188\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja33.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja33.jpg\" data-id=\"4851\" class=\"wp-image-4851 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 250px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 250\/188;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><\/ul><\/div>\n\n\n<p>Todos los animales sacrificados ser\u00e1n compa\u00f1eros de camino en el m\u00e1s all\u00e1. Para ellos era lo m\u00e1s natural. Una torre mortuoria construida para albergar el f\u00e9retro y donde la familia presidia el patio central. Me acerqu\u00e9 t\u00edmidamente para tener una mejor visi\u00f3n de todo. Miraba a mi alrededor. Se respiraba dolor y muerte. El lugar parec\u00eda una escena del Antiguo Testamento. Estruendos, chillidos y un r\u00edo de sangre. El matarife cortaba las gargantas de los animales con un afilado machete. Tres b\u00fafalos cayeron cerca de mis pies mientras transportaban el alma del difunto. Al mirarlo me sobrecog\u00ed. Regres\u00e9 a casa tras el impresionante espect\u00e1culo. En total se sacrificaron quince b\u00fafalos y unos cien cerdos.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedgallery .kb-gallery-type-grid.kb-gallery-id-_8e6337-74{margin:-7px;}.kb-gallery-type-grid.kb-gallery-id-_8e6337-74 .kadence-blocks-gallery-item{padding:7px;}.kb-gallery-id-_8e6337-74 .kadence-blocks-gallery-item .kb-gal-image-radius, .kb-gallery-id-_8e6337-74 .kb-slide-item .kb-gal-image-radius img{border-radius:0px 0px 0px 0px;;}<\/style><div class=\"kb-gallery-wrap-id-_8e6337-74 alignnone wp-block-kadence-advancedgallery\"><ul class=\"kb-gallery-ul kb-gallery-non-static kb-gallery-type-grid kb-gallery-id-_8e6337-74 kb-gallery-caption-style-bottom-hover kb-gallery-filter-none\" data-image-filter=\"none\" data-item-selector=\".kadence-blocks-gallery-item\" data-lightbox-caption=\"true\" data-columns-xxl=\"3\" data-columns-xl=\"3\" data-columns-md=\"3\" data-columns-sm=\"2\" data-columns-xs=\"1\" data-columns-ss=\"1\"><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-port23 kb-has-image-ratio-port23\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja26.jpg\" width=\"188\" height=\"250\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja26.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja26.jpg\" data-id=\"4847\" class=\"wp-image-4847 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 188px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 188\/250;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-port23 kb-has-image-ratio-port23\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja23.jpg\" width=\"188\" height=\"250\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja23.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja23.jpg\" data-id=\"4848\" class=\"wp-image-4848 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 188px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 188\/250;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-port23 kb-has-image-ratio-port23\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja32.jpg\" width=\"188\" height=\"250\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja32.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja32.jpg\" data-id=\"4849\" class=\"wp-image-4849 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 188px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 188\/250;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/figure><\/div><\/li><\/ul><\/div>\n\n\n<p>No pod\u00eda creer que un funeral pudiera ser una fiesta de esas dimensiones. Parec\u00eda m\u00e1s bien una boda. Pens\u00e9 entonces que la muerte era finalmente el momento cuando se concreta la uni\u00f3n de nuestras almas con lo absoluto y que eso deber\u00eda ser siempre una celebraci\u00f3n. Antes de llegar al territorio toraja ten\u00eda una visi\u00f3n bastante sesgada de la muerte, pero en ese momento comprend\u00ed que la semilla en el campo germinaba porque previamente hab\u00eda muerto en la flor o en el fruto, porque la muerte da vida.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedgallery .kb-gallery-type-grid.kb-gallery-id-_1c6ae9-ab{margin:-7px;}.kb-gallery-type-grid.kb-gallery-id-_1c6ae9-ab .kadence-blocks-gallery-item{padding:7px;}.kb-gallery-id-_1c6ae9-ab .kadence-blocks-gallery-item .kb-gal-image-radius, .kb-gallery-id-_1c6ae9-ab .kb-slide-item .kb-gal-image-radius img{border-radius:0px 0px 0px 0px;;}<\/style><div class=\"kb-gallery-wrap-id-_1c6ae9-ab alignnone wp-block-kadence-advancedgallery\"><ul class=\"kb-gallery-ul kb-gallery-non-static kb-gallery-type-grid kb-gallery-id-_1c6ae9-ab kb-gallery-caption-style-bottom-hover kb-gallery-filter-none kb-gallery-magnific-init\" data-image-filter=\"none\" data-item-selector=\".kadence-blocks-gallery-item\" data-lightbox-caption=\"true\" data-columns-xxl=\"1\" data-columns-xl=\"1\" data-columns-md=\"1\" data-columns-sm=\"1\" data-columns-xs=\"1\" data-columns-ss=\"1\"><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja90.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-land32 kb-has-image-ratio-land32\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja90.jpg\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja90.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja90.jpg\" data-id=\"4852\" class=\"wp-image-4852 lazyload\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja90.jpg 500w, https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja90-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja90-350x263.jpg 350w, https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja90-260x195.jpg 260w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 500px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 500\/375;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><\/ul><\/div>\n\n\n<p>Entend\u00ed que este pueblo, unido a la tierra por medio del trabajo arduo y afectuoso, tiene una aguda conciencia de la muerte, como dadora de la vida, ya que sin ella no ser\u00eda posible la proliferaci\u00f3n de todo. Por esto la honran como tierra, como madre y como muerte, celebrando la unidad de la existencia. Y as\u00ed como los ni\u00f1os sepultados en el \u00e1rbol ascienden al cielo, as\u00ed como el agua de la lluvia se evapora con el sol y tambi\u00e9n asciende, en el universo toraja todo y todos van al cielo. Los granos labrados en el campo se han transformado en arroz, las verduras est\u00e1n listas para ser servidas, los animales han sido sacrificados para comer. Es un momento donde se conmemora el inefable misterio, la uni\u00f3n de la muerte con la vida, la transformaci\u00f3n de la tristeza en alegr\u00eda y de la oscuridad en luz com\u00fan.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedgallery .kb-gallery-type-grid.kb-gallery-id-_92604a-90{margin:-7px;}.kb-gallery-type-grid.kb-gallery-id-_92604a-90 .kadence-blocks-gallery-item{padding:7px;}.kb-gallery-id-_92604a-90 .kadence-blocks-gallery-item .kb-gal-image-radius, .kb-gallery-id-_92604a-90 .kb-slide-item .kb-gal-image-radius img{border-radius:0px 0px 0px 0px;;}<\/style><div class=\"kb-gallery-wrap-id-_92604a-90 alignnone wp-block-kadence-advancedgallery\"><ul class=\"kb-gallery-ul kb-gallery-non-static kb-gallery-type-grid kb-gallery-id-_92604a-90 kb-gallery-caption-style-bottom-hover kb-gallery-filter-none kb-gallery-magnific-init\" data-image-filter=\"none\" data-item-selector=\".kadence-blocks-gallery-item\" data-lightbox-caption=\"true\" data-columns-xxl=\"3\" data-columns-xl=\"3\" data-columns-md=\"3\" data-columns-sm=\"2\" data-columns-xs=\"1\" data-columns-ss=\"1\"><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja30.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-land32 kb-has-image-ratio-land32\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja30.jpg\" width=\"250\" height=\"188\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja30.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja30.jpg\" data-id=\"4853\" class=\"wp-image-4853 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 250px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 250\/188;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja68.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-land32 kb-has-image-ratio-land32\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja68.jpg\" width=\"250\" height=\"188\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja68.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja68.jpg\" data-id=\"4854\" class=\"wp-image-4854 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 250px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 250\/188;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja65.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-land32 kb-has-image-ratio-land32\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja65.jpg\" width=\"250\" height=\"188\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja65.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja65.jpg\" data-id=\"4855\" class=\"wp-image-4855 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 250px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 250\/188;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja50.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-land32 kb-has-image-ratio-land32\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja50.jpg\" width=\"250\" height=\"188\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja50.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja50.jpg\" data-id=\"4856\" class=\"wp-image-4856 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 250px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 250\/188;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja51.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-land32 kb-has-image-ratio-land32\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja51.jpg\" width=\"188\" height=\"250\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja51.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja51.jpg\" data-id=\"4857\" class=\"wp-image-4857 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 188px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 188\/250;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja53.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-land32 kb-has-image-ratio-land32\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja53.jpg\" width=\"250\" height=\"188\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja53.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja53.jpg\" data-id=\"4858\" class=\"wp-image-4858 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 250px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 250\/188;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><\/ul><\/div>\n\n\n<p>Al anochecer, Yusuf lleg\u00f3 con la carne de b\u00fafalo que se reparti\u00f3 entre las familias despu\u00e9s del sacrificio. Cogi\u00f3 el cuchillo, la parti\u00f3 en peque\u00f1os pedazos y la cocin\u00f3 a le\u00f1a, a fuego lento, para cenar. Despu\u00e9s de compartir aquel manjar, la ceremonia continu\u00f3. Fuimos a un lugar donde unos grupos de hombres vestidos de luto danzaban en c\u00edrculo y entonaban cantos. Dos personas se encargaban de servir la bebida de un caldero que estaba en el centro. Me abrieron un espacio y me dieron la mano. Un paso hacia adelante, otro hacia atr\u00e1s, despacio, todos cogidos de la mano. Muy lentamente danzaban, beb\u00edan y cantaban en c\u00edrculo, honrando al difunto en su largo viaje. Llegado aquel momento, en medio de la danza, pude percibir que los familiares sent\u00edan que hab\u00edan cumplido con su deber. Fue el \u00faltimo baile de despedida. Al d\u00eda siguiente, el f\u00e9retro se traslad\u00f3 a las monta\u00f1as para su descanso final.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedgallery .kb-gallery-type-grid.kb-gallery-id-_d47c96-70{margin:-7px;}.kb-gallery-type-grid.kb-gallery-id-_d47c96-70 .kadence-blocks-gallery-item{padding:7px;}.kb-gallery-id-_d47c96-70 .kadence-blocks-gallery-item .kb-gal-image-radius, .kb-gallery-id-_d47c96-70 .kb-slide-item .kb-gal-image-radius img{border-radius:0px 0px 0px 0px;;}<\/style><div class=\"kb-gallery-wrap-id-_d47c96-70 alignnone wp-block-kadence-advancedgallery\"><ul class=\"kb-gallery-ul kb-gallery-non-static kb-gallery-type-grid kb-gallery-id-_d47c96-70 kb-gallery-caption-style-bottom-hover kb-gallery-filter-none kb-gallery-magnific-init\" data-image-filter=\"none\" data-item-selector=\".kadence-blocks-gallery-item\" data-lightbox-caption=\"true\" data-columns-xxl=\"3\" data-columns-xl=\"3\" data-columns-md=\"3\" data-columns-sm=\"2\" data-columns-xs=\"1\" data-columns-ss=\"1\"><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja52.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-land32 kb-has-image-ratio-land32\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja52.jpg\" width=\"250\" height=\"188\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja52.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja52.jpg\" data-id=\"4859\" class=\"wp-image-4859 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 250px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 250\/188;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja27.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-land32 kb-has-image-ratio-land32\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja27.jpg\" width=\"250\" height=\"188\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja27.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja27.jpg\" data-id=\"4860\" class=\"wp-image-4860 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 250px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 250\/188;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja28.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-land32 kb-has-image-ratio-land32\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja28.jpg\" width=\"250\" height=\"188\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja28.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja28.jpg\" data-id=\"4861\" class=\"wp-image-4861 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 250px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 250\/188;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><\/ul><\/div>\n\n\n<p>En el cuarto d\u00eda de celebraci\u00f3n, Mart\u00ednez decidi\u00f3 quedarse en casa, Leksi y yo bajamos en moto a presenciar el entierro. No sab\u00eda si presenciar\u00eda la ceremonia final, cuando, de repente, escuch\u00e9 un enorme estruendo; el ata\u00fad, con elaboradas tallas multicolores, era cargado en hombros por varios chicos, y estos lo sosten\u00edan con unos palos de bamb\u00fa. Los presentes zarandeaban el f\u00e9retro. Subimos a un peque\u00f1o repecho y caminamos por un sendero por donde llevaban cuidadosamente el ata\u00fad. Al llegar a una cueva de dif\u00edcil acceso, el camino se hizo estrecho, escabroso, y sin embargo bajaron por una escalera de bamb\u00fa y depositaron el cuerpo entre las rocas.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedgallery .kb-gallery-type-grid.kb-gallery-id-_ea3546-16{margin:-7px;}.kb-gallery-type-grid.kb-gallery-id-_ea3546-16 .kadence-blocks-gallery-item{padding:7px;}.kb-gallery-id-_ea3546-16 .kadence-blocks-gallery-item .kb-gal-image-radius, .kb-gallery-id-_ea3546-16 .kb-slide-item .kb-gal-image-radius img{border-radius:0px 0px 0px 0px;;}<\/style><div class=\"kb-gallery-wrap-id-_ea3546-16 alignnone wp-block-kadence-advancedgallery\"><ul class=\"kb-gallery-ul kb-gallery-non-static kb-gallery-type-grid kb-gallery-id-_ea3546-16 kb-gallery-caption-style-bottom-hover kb-gallery-filter-none kb-gallery-magnific-init\" data-image-filter=\"none\" data-item-selector=\".kadence-blocks-gallery-item\" data-lightbox-caption=\"true\" data-columns-xxl=\"3\" data-columns-xl=\"3\" data-columns-md=\"3\" data-columns-sm=\"2\" data-columns-xs=\"1\" data-columns-ss=\"1\"><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja54-1.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-land32 kb-has-image-ratio-land32\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja54-1.jpg\" width=\"250\" height=\"188\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja54-1.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja54-1.jpg\" data-id=\"4868\" class=\"wp-image-4868 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 250px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 250\/188;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja55.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-land32 kb-has-image-ratio-land32\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja55.jpg\" width=\"250\" height=\"188\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja55.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja55.jpg\" data-id=\"4862\" class=\"wp-image-4862 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 250px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 250\/188;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja56.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-land32 kb-has-image-ratio-land32\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja56.jpg\" width=\"250\" height=\"188\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja56.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja56.jpg\" data-id=\"4864\" class=\"wp-image-4864 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 250px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 250\/188;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja59.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-land32 kb-has-image-ratio-land32\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja59.jpg\" width=\"250\" height=\"188\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja59.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja59.jpg\" data-id=\"4865\" class=\"wp-image-4865 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 250px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 250\/188;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja57.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-land32 kb-has-image-ratio-land32\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja57.jpg\" width=\"250\" height=\"188\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja57.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja57.jpg\" data-id=\"4866\" class=\"wp-image-4866 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 250px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 250\/188;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja58.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-land32 kb-has-image-ratio-land32\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja58.jpg\" width=\"250\" height=\"188\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja58.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/toraja58.jpg\" data-id=\"4867\" class=\"wp-image-4867 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 250px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 250\/188;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><\/ul><\/div>\n\n\n<p>No se derramaban l\u00e1grimas en p\u00fablico. El funeral se afrontaba con dignidad y firmeza. En verdad era la muerte el momento m\u00e1s importante de la vida. El \u00e1rbol de los ni\u00f1os, la jovencita amamantando a su hijo, la amistad de Mart\u00ednez, todos esos momentos de alguna forma daban sentido al viaje, a las cosas, a mi vida. Todav\u00eda recuerdo el olor a caf\u00e9, las espont\u00e1neas sonrisas, la sencillez y la hospitalidad en medio del constante sacrificio.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedgallery .kb-gallery-type-grid.kb-gallery-id-_bfe1e6-08{margin:-7px;}.kb-gallery-type-grid.kb-gallery-id-_bfe1e6-08 .kadence-blocks-gallery-item{padding:7px;}.kb-gallery-id-_bfe1e6-08 .kadence-blocks-gallery-item .kb-gal-image-radius, .kb-gallery-id-_bfe1e6-08 .kb-slide-item .kb-gal-image-radius img{border-radius:0px 0px 0px 0px;;}<\/style><div class=\"kb-gallery-wrap-id-_bfe1e6-08 alignnone wp-block-kadence-advancedgallery\"><ul class=\"kb-gallery-ul kb-gallery-non-static kb-gallery-type-grid kb-gallery-id-_bfe1e6-08 kb-gallery-caption-style-bottom-hover kb-gallery-filter-none kb-gallery-magnific-init\" data-image-filter=\"none\" data-item-selector=\".kadence-blocks-gallery-item\" data-lightbox-caption=\"true\" data-columns-xxl=\"2\" data-columns-xl=\"2\" data-columns-md=\"2\" data-columns-sm=\"2\" data-columns-xs=\"1\" data-columns-ss=\"1\"><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/mercado_toraja1.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-land32 kb-has-image-ratio-land32\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/mercado_toraja1.jpg\" width=\"250\" height=\"188\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/mercado_toraja1.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/mercado_toraja1.jpg\" data-id=\"4869\" class=\"wp-image-4869 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 250px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 250\/188;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/mercado_toraja.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-land32 kb-has-image-ratio-land32\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/mercado_toraja.jpg\" width=\"250\" height=\"188\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/mercado_toraja.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/mercado_toraja.jpg\" data-id=\"4870\" class=\"wp-image-4870 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 250px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 250\/188;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/mercado_toraja4.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-land32 kb-has-image-ratio-land32\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/mercado_toraja4.jpg\" width=\"250\" height=\"188\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/mercado_toraja4.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/mercado_toraja4.jpg\" data-id=\"4871\" class=\"wp-image-4871 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 250px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 250\/188;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/mercado_toraja-1.jpg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"  ><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-land32 kb-has-image-ratio-land32\" ><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/mercado_toraja-1.jpg\" width=\"250\" height=\"188\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/mercado_toraja-1.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/mercado_toraja-1.jpg\" data-id=\"4872\" class=\"wp-image-4872 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 250px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 250\/188;\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><\/ul><\/div>\n\n\n<div style=\"height:20px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Ahondando en el camino, avanz\u00e1bamos entre arrozales. Los campos se mov\u00edan con el viento como una ola. En la carretera secaban el arroz en lonas y vend\u00edan frutas. A veces llov\u00eda, el ambiente se tornaba enigm\u00e1tico. Pasaron cinco silenciosas horas, ya que mi compa\u00f1ero casi no hablaba, hasta que llegamos a la ciudad de Rantepao. &hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":4873,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_genesis_hide_title":false,"_genesis_hide_breadcrumbs":false,"_genesis_hide_singular_image":false,"_genesis_hide_footer_widgets":false,"_genesis_custom_body_class":"","_genesis_custom_post_class":"","_genesis_layout":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[16,12],"tags":[59],"class_list":{"0":"post-4804","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-asia","8":"category-vuelta-al-mundo","9":"tag-indonesia","10":"entry"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4804","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=4804"}],"version-history":[{"count":6,"href":"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4804\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":12812,"href":"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4804\/revisions\/12812"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/4873"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=4804"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=4804"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/carlosmunozgonzalez.com\/litosasturias\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=4804"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}